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ewfoundland and Labrador is not only a land
of unspoiled beauty and centuries of history, it is a land with
a deep culture. A land with a blossoming arts community that offers
generous helpings of original theatre, art, and more music than
you can shake your fiddle at. In recent years, the tourism industry
in this province has been growing in leaps and bounds. People come
here for many reasons: icebergs, whale watching, sea kayaking, hiking
and a multitude of other adventures sure to satisfy the most discerning
outdoor excursionist. But once they get here, travellers tend notice
other things-things that are not so easily portrayed by a tourism
brochure. Like the friendly greetings of the people, enhanced by
Irish flavoured dialects as varied as the jagged shoreline. Or the
magnificent coastal scenery staged against a sparkling blue ocean
and decorated with hundreds of tiny fishing villages - scanty little
towns full of brightly coloured dwellings clinging to seaside cliffs.
And then they hear the music.
Music, that has developed over the centuries and is woven into the
very fabric of the culture. Ballads, shanties, jigs and reels fill
the local the pubs, grace the stages of numerous folk festivals
and accompany every kitchen party. Newfoundlanders have always found
something to sing about. About days gone past, friendships, heartaches
and of times to come, not much different from anywhere else really,
but what is different is the shear multitude of songs, musicians
and culture found within the coves and tickles that make up rural
Newfoundland.
Originating from Western Europe, the majority of Newfoundlanders
owe their heritage to the Irish, English and French immigrants who
moved here over the past five hundred years.
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They came to fish for cod, and with them,
they brought their music, dialect and architecture. Settling in
the countless bays and harbours, they formed hundreds of small communities
dotted along the along the coast. Outport life was difficult and
isolated. Our forefathers learned to fend for themselves, making
them a hardy but innovative people.
One way of coping with the never ending workdays of summer and the
long cold winter nights was through self-entertainment. They sang
shanties to the beat of manual labour, played fast tempo fiddle
music for dancing and recited ballads both with and without music
to teach a lesson learned or deliver a quip.
For many years the music steeped in tradition as the songs from
the old country blended with the new tunes of self-taught fiddlers
in music that was passed on from father to son and mother to daughter.
Owing to a lack of outside influences, the music developed its own
unique flavour-and though its original 'Celtic' slant is still prominent,
the music is distinctly Newfoundland.
In more recent history, with the advent of radio and television,
outports were no longer quite so isolated, and the younger generations
were swept up in rock and roll and the British invasion. But this
did not shatter centuries of culture it only redirected the energy.
Today's modern bands still play some of the original tunes, only
now, the fiddles and accordions are accompanied by electric guitars
and synthesisers.
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This is having a positive
impact as main stream acts like Great Big Sea and The Irish Descendants
headline national gigs, our traditional music is reaching larger
audiences than ever before, and in doing so it is capturing a period
of our history - like it has for generations.
It is hard to visit Newfoundland without harbouring a fondness for
the culture, its people and its music. Sure there are whale tours
and iceberg excursions, geological wonders and plenty of history
but on every tour and in every shop you'll also hear an accordion
or a fiddle and it is not just a commercial sell. It is real - a
part of this rock in the North Atlantic. Ingrained in its people
like wrinkles on the weathered face of an aged fisherman. Oozing
from under the surface, it puts a tap in your toe and a smile on
your face.
Where to catch the beat
If you were to look at the calendar of events for Newfoundland you
will find no less than 50 folk festivals held at various times throughout
the province - you are never far from a fiddle. More specifically,
The Newfoundland and Labrador Folk Festival held every August in
St. John's is a pinnacle event. Other noteworthy events include
the Exploits Valley Salmon Festival in Grand Falls-Windsor and Southern
Shore Shamrock Festival in Ferryland. Fred's Records in on Duckworth
Street in St. John's specializes in traditional and modern Newfoundland
music. A popular pub with a flair for traditional music is O'Reilley's
Irish Pub on George Street in downtown St. John's.
©Magical Places 2002
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